- Have out-of-town guests arriving in NYC for the holidays? Be sure to steer them to these swanky new New York hotel bars.
- LeNell Smothers, who writes for Slashfood as "LeNellItAll," shares her easy "Spa Mix" recipe to make any drink as cool as a cucumber.
- Harlem speakeasy 67 Orange Street is hosting a Partida cocktail tasting from 7:30 to 9pm on Tuesday, Nov. 17. 2082 Frederick Douglas Blvd., 212-662-2030
- Pernod Absinthe is holding an art contest, "Creator Of," asking for submissions of paintings, illustrations, photography, video, and digital/animation featuring the date "1805," the year Pernod was born. The first-place winner will receive $1,805; second and third prizes are $500 and $250, respectively. Deadline is Jan. 31.
Dizzy Recap: WhiskyFest New York
“Too much of anything is bad, but too much of good whiskey is barely enough.” –Mark Twain
Toasted vanilla, sweet sherry, cedar. Prunes, dark chocolate, charred fruits. Cracked pepper, moss, smoky peat. What is there not to love about the spicy, tongue-tingling world of whisk(e)y? Clearly, not a thing, as the 12th Annual WhiskyFest New York at the Marriott Marquis in Times Square was wall-to-wall packed with whisky drinkers Tuesday night. With more than 200 exhibitors pouring drams of single malts, blended whiskies, bourbon, rum, beer, and other spirits, this was one dizzy affair.
Upon entering the boisterous scene, I made a beeline for the USBGNY booth to sip on some scotch cocktails before diving into straight pours. As expected, the drinks were complex and delish--I sampled Meaghan Dorman's "Bagpipe Dream" (Compass Box Asyla scotch, fresh lemon juice, ginger maple syrup), Jolene Skrzysowski's "Rustic Plums" (Woodford's Reserve bourbon, Domaine de Canton, plum wine, pear nectar), and Hal Wolin's "2009 Scotch Odyssey" (Glenmorangie 10 Year scotch, Laphroaig scotch, mole bitters, demerara syrup). I also had a fantastic Old Fashioned by USBGNY President Jonatha Pogash, but forgot to write down the ingredients.
John Glaser, creator of Compass Box Whisky, said the recent evolution of fine scotch as an ingredient in cocktails has made for a positive addition at WhiskyFest. "You would never have seen this five years ago," he said.
So which whiskies did I try? Let's see, from what I can recall there was Michael Collins Irish Whiskey Single Malt, Compass Box Spice Tree, Glenmorangie Nectar D'Or, Ardberg 10 Year, The Balvenie Portwood 21 Year, Glenrothes 1991 (they were out of 1985), Tullamore Dew 12 Year, Blanton's Single Barrel bourbon, Highland Park 18 Year, Yamazaki 18 Year, and a most delicious Signatory Glen Grant 1976 from the Bar & Books booth. I also had Zacapa Rum, BrewDog Paradox Smokehead stout aged in Scotch casks, and more scotch cocktails mixed by kilted bartenders from St. Andrews Restaurant & Bar. There were so many more drams I wanted to try, if time and liver capacity were of no concern.
The crowd was, from my approximation, 90 percent male, 40 percent Orthodox Jewish (maybe more), and 70 percent over the age of 40, not that it matters or anyone's counting. Thanks to Malt Advocate for organizing the event and to Kate Laufer for the invite. Slainte!
Sip & Tell: Gardner Dunn of Suntory Whisky
"For relaxing times, make it Suntory time."--Bill Murray's character, "Bob Harris," advertising Suntory in Lost in Translation
[Sip & Tell features barstool interviews with spirits industry professionals.]
You probably recognize the above quote from the 2003 film Lost in Translation starring Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson. Around that time, Suntory was still best known for its melon liqueur, Midori, but over the past few years, its single malt whisky, Yamazaki, has infiltrated U.S. shores and quietly stolen the hearts of many a scotch drinker. Yamazaki 12 year and 18 year, both prize-winning in blind tastings, are made at Japan's oldest distillery, founded by Scotland-educated Shinjiro Torii in 1923. Created with the level of craftsmanship the Japanese are known for, the whisky is aged in Japanese, American, and Spanish oak casks, lending a full-bodied flavor and silky smooth finish.
Over the past year, many of NYC's best-known cocktail bars have featured drinks made with Yamazaki, such as the "Gold Rush" at Goldbar and the "Murray Sour" at Minetta Tavern. This is mainly due to the work of Gardner Dunn, North American Brand Ambassador for Suntory Whisky.
Gardner, a mixologist who is as recognized for his creative cocktails as his off-kilter hairstyle, travels around the country for several days (if not weeks) every month. He says he's seeing a younger crowd show interest in the brand. "Scotch used to be a status symbol, something your dad drank," he said. "Now I'm seeing younger people wanting to try new stuff. They're interested in hearing about the distillation and the history."
Gardner recently got an advanced course on all things Yamazaki when he traveled to the Suntory distillery on the outskirts of Kyoto, a location chosen for its water source. The Vale of Yamazaki, hailed by famous master of the tea ceremony, Senno Rikyu, is legendary for its pure water. Inspired by the art of Japanese bartening, which includes techniques such as ice ball carving and the hard shake, Gardner set out to gather Japanese bartending tools to show to the many skilled bartenders he's met stateside. He's put together a "Godzilla Kit," with tools including crystal mixing glasses with a lip, bar spoons with forks on the opposite end, and Japanese jiggers, which have a thinner and deeper design and more balanced weight than standard jiggers.
The Godzilla Kits are just one bonus in what is turning out to be an exciting year for Suntory. Later this month, the hotly-anticipated Hibiki 12-year blended whisky (aged in plum liqueur casks and filtered through bamboo charcoal) hits shelves in NYC and California, its first debut stateside. Also, just in time for the holidays, a limited edition of 300 bottles of 1984 Yamazaki will be released, for $550-$650 a pop.
Gardner says he finds himself crafting cocktails less and less and carving ice balls more and more as he focuses on educating people everywhere about the history and philosophy behind Suntory. "Cocktails are not the goal [for Yamazaki], but it does mix very well," he said. "It doesn't have a lot of heat, but it has honey overtones that pair well with other spirits."
Kanpai!
Dizzy Recap: Amarula Cream at Esquire SoHo Penthouse
Bachelors and cream liqueur might not seem a likely match, but earlier this week, Amarula Cream, Esquire Magazine, and mixologist Alex Ott proved otherwise. Amarula Cream, a South African liqueur made with the fruit of the Marula tree, held a cocktail bash to celebrate its sponsorship of the recently unveiled 2009 Esquire "Ultimate Bachelor Pad" at the SoHo Mews. "Pad" is truly an understatement--this sprawling, block-sized penthouse styled by a dozen top designers is filled with impossibly cool, impossibly pricey decor. I could go on and on about the chic interior (digitally-enhanced billiards table, a $40,000 leather "chopper chair" in the Diesel-sponsored music studio, a luxurious Hugo Boss-sponsored master bedroom with views of the Empire State Building), but I'll leave that to the design bloggers.
To kick off the evening, Alex demonstrated how he created fresh-ingredient cocktails that would bring out Amarula's refreshing fruit flavors. The marula fruit has a guava-like tropical essence, giving Amarula an exotic aftertaste. Alex's most impressive drink was a revelation of masculine flavors--the "Tobacco Vanilla" involved tobacco-infused liquified honey, sandalwood syrup (sandalwood powder-infused simple syrup), Amarula, light rum, and lime juice.
Alex's instructions for making the tobacco-infused liquified honey: dissolve two parts of Manuka honey or acacia honey in one part of hot water, stir until dissolved, and let cool. Store honey in a refrigerator. Burn organic tobacco and guide it through a punctured straw through the honey solution for about one minute.
Other cocktails served included the "Amarula & Eve" (Amarula, citrus vodka, lychee juice, and ruby red grapefruit juice), "Green Tea Wonder" (Amarula, mango nectar, gunpowder green tea, and lemon juice), and the "Pink Elephant" (Amarula, chocolate liqueur, merlot, raspberry puree, heavy cream, sugar, and a garnish of hickory smoke). Alex showed us how to make a quick whipped cream by simply shaking heavy cream and sugar in a cocktail shaker. To make the hickory smoke garnish, Alex lit a piece of wood under an inverted funnel, while his assistant siphoned the smoke into a plastic squueze bottle, thus capturing the smoke. When squeezed over the drink, the whipped cream absorbed the smoke flavor, delivering a campfire effect.
Between the penthouse views, pool table antics, and indulgent cocktails, this was one party that was difficult to leave. Fortunately, I will be back at the Mews for a Woodfords Reserve event next week!
Dizzy Recap: Chartreuse/LUPEC Tweetup & Beam Luxury Spirits Launch
November in the NYC cocktail circuit got off to a good start this week, with Monday's Chartreuse/LUPEC NYC (Ladies United for the Protection of Endangered Cocktails) tweetup at Astor Centor and Beam Spirits Luxury tasting at the penthouse of the Hotel on Rivington. Although I was drastically late to the Chartreuse/LUPEC party and missed out on meeting Chartreuse President Jean Marc Roget, I did get to sample four delicious chartreuse cocktails--a champagne cocktail with Green Chartreuse, Yellow Chartreuse, grapefruit juice, and champagne; a Hendrick's Gin and chartreuse cocktail with sage; a cognac cocktail with chartreuse, lemon juice, and bitters; and "The Equinox:" Yellow Chartreuse, Famous Grouse Whisky, cloves, lemon juice, and simple syrup. If you don't know by now, Chartreuse is an herbal liqueur created by the Carthusian monks in 1605. Both the yellow and green varieties each contain 130 botanicals, and only three monks hold the secret to the recipe. Forgetting how potent Chartreuse is--the yellow is 86 proof while the green is 110 proof--I probably should have slowed my roll before jetting to the Beam event, alas, the drinks were just too good to put down.
Contemporary Cocktails and Handcrafted PR joined forces to throw a spirited bash at the Hotel on Rivington penthouse to celebrate Beam's luxury line featuring Laphroaig Single Malt Whisky, Ri(1) Rye Whiskey, Courvoisier Exclusif Cognac, and El Tesoro Tequila. The three-story, glass-enclosed space was full of off-duty bartenderati, and drinks included the "Brooklyn Cocktail:" Ri(1) whiskey, maraschino liqueur, and Italian vermouth; "Original Sazerac:" Courvoisier Exclusif, absinthe rinse, sugar cube, and Peychaud's bitters; and "Bobby Burns:" Laphroaig scotch, Punt e Mes Vermouth, Benedictine liqueur, dry vermouth, and Angostura bitters. There was also a gold body-painted lass serving a Laphroaig-laced punch, which was smoky and sweet. I wouldn't necessarily add peaty Islay scotch to my holiday punch--I did not find the combination seamless--but for the acquired palate, this was a memorable treat. Thanks to all for a great night!
Elsewhere in the Liquiverse...
- Lush Life Productions, in partnership with APPSolute Media, Don Q Rum, and Tito's Handmade Vodka, recently launched a free iPhone app, "Happy Houred." Just a few swipes of the fingers and you'll know which bars are having cheap drinking hours near you, in whichever U.S. city you may be. You can even add your own reviews of the bars and drinks.
- Have you seen that article on VillageVoice.com about where New York mixologists drink during their off hours? (Yes, I wrote it. I know, shameless.)
- Or how about that round-up of last-minute Halloween and Day of the Dead events in NYC? (Again, I am shameless.)
- Nation's Restaurant News looks at the popularity of the atomizer as a mixology tool.
- Bols is putting on an awesome-sounding contest, "Bols Around the World Shaking Twenties Competition." Working bartenders are invited to submit cocktail recipes inspired by the Roaring 20s. David Wondrich will choose one North American finalist to go to Amsterdam and compete with five other talented bartenders representing Europe, Asia, Africa, Australia and South America. The grand prize winner will win the opportunity to design and create his or her own signature Bols liqueur in Amsterdam with a Bols product developer. Deadline is Nov. 30.
Dizzy Recap: Days 3 & 4 of the NYC Wine & Food Festival
"Martinis are like breasts: one's not enough, and three's too many--and four's a party."--Simon Ford
While hordes of foodies went to burger bashes and stalked Rocco DiSpirito, my NYC Wine & Food Festival experience was much more liquid-oriented, as I mentioned previously. So in no change of pace I found my weekend booked with two seminars featuring spirits that, just a few years ago, were on opposite ends of the popularity spectrum--gin and tequila.
At "Gin Joint" at 5 Ninth, Plymouth Gin Brand Ambassador Simon Ford admitted that when he first moved to New York from London, gin had a bad rap. "I'm sure many of us had a bad experience and got sick drinking it from our parents' liquor cabinet," he said. But now that less-junipery gins are on the market, gin is finally having a moment again, at least here in New York. After "cleansing" our palettes with French 75s (Beefeater Gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, Perrier Jouet Champagne), Simon took us through a tasting of six gins representing the history of the distilled juiper elixir traced back to monks in the 11th century.
Naturally, we started with Bols Genever, based on the 19th-century recipe for Holland-style gin. Its subtly sweet, malty taste was a hit with British troops fighting in Holland against the Spanish in the Thirty Years' War, who dubbed it "Dutch Courage." So when the British appointed a Dutch king to the throne (King William of Orange) in 1689, the gin craze officially took off. By the mid-1700s, gin was so popular in England that 11 million gallons were being produced a year, and at that time the spirit was known as "mother's ruin" for its detrimental effects. Thankfully, the 1830s brought the invention of the coffee still, leading to the column distillation method for what is known as London dry gin.
Next, we tried Beefeater, a classic London dry gin, which features notes of juniper, citrus, and angelica root, and Plymouth Gin, which is made in the town of Plymouth, England, and manages to balance juniper with citrus, spice, and floral notes. By the 1890s, the gin rage crossed the pond to the U.S., where it was a classic cocktail ingredient until Prohibition. We also tried Boodles, a classic London gin with juniper and coriander notes founded in 1762, Beefeater 24, a new gin released earlier this year with prominent citrus and tea notes, and Magellan Gin, which features a blue tint and floral nose due to its use of iris root. We were also served a dry martini (Plymouth Gin, dry vermouth, orange bitters, and a lemon twist) and a "Breakfast Martini," featuring Beefeater, Le Combier orange liqueur, lemon juice, and orange marmalade.
The highlight of the session for me was chatting with Simon and Jamie Gordon afterwards and getting a sneak peek at Jill DeGroff's "Lush Life" book, a collection of her stunning caricatures of well-known cocktailians set for release on Nov. 1. Jill, wife of "King Cocktail" Dale DeGroff, has close ties with many of the people she illustrates, and her anthology captures the warmth and spirit of these animated "characters."
For my last day of the NYCWFF, I attended a tequila tasting at Los Dados by Jaime Salas, National Brand Ambassador of Tres Generaciones Tequila, distilled by Sauza. A refreshing cocktail of Tres Generaciones plata, creme de cassis, ruby red grapefruit juice, and Sprite was served to prepare us for straight tastings of tequila, sans lime or salt. Jamie told us how blue agave, "maguey," was fermented and drunk by pre-Hispanic emperors before the Spanish distillation process was introduced in the 16th century. In 1873, Don Cenobio Sauza was the first to call the agave spirit "tequila," named after the region in the Jalisco state of Mexico, and the first to ship it to the U.S.
To be labeled tequila, the spirit must be at least twice-distilled, and it must come from the state of Jalisco and a few other areas. It must also have at least 51 percent of the fermented sugars come from the blue agave; the remainder may include cane or brown sugar, although this is considered less premium. Jamie said tequila is the costliest spirit to produce because agave takes eight to 12 years to ripen and then is harvested manually. Tres Generaciones is 100 percent blue agave and is triple-distilled, leaving smooth and clean agave flavors with a slight pepper finish. We tasted the plata, which is unaged (lightly sweet, citrus and banana notes); the reposado, aged four months in oak (vanilla, light caramel, and smoke); and the anejo, aged at least one year in toasted oak barrels (vanilla, toffee, and white pepper). Needless to say, this was not a bad way to start a Sunday afternoon.
A few facts Jaime shared: chilling tequila suppresses the flavor; in 2007, the U.S. surpassed Mexico for tequila consumption; and the margarita is the most-requested cocktail in the world.
¡Salud!
Sip & Tell: Stephen Yorsz of Maker's Mark
[Sip & Tell features barstool interviews with spirits industry professionals.]
Maker's Mark, that trusty Kentucky bourbon, has not changed one damn bit since the Samuels family reinvented their recipe in 1953. Red winter wheat in the mash, as opposed to rye, gives the bourbon a smooth balance, and the brand is known for producing small batches aged in charred oak barrels for five to seven years, producing a subtly sweet caramel flavor. It's also considered a whisky (instead of a "whiskey") due to the brand's Scottish heritage.
Here in New York City, the brand is having an interesting moment as more and more bars are using brown spirits to create classic cocktails like the Old Fashioned and the Manhattan. Maker's Mark, most popularly ordered on the rocks, is available at just about every bar in the city, from dirty dive to upscale lounge. For decades, ordering a bourbon or whisky neat or on the rocks was an act of rebellion against the candy cocktails of the Cosmo era, but now that fresh-ingredient cocktails and pre-Prohibition cocktails are in vogue, ordering straight bourbon doesn't seem as sophisticated. (Of course, most people who order bourbon straight don't care what anyone thinks, anyway.)
When it comes to using bourbon in cocktails, some mixologists prefer more super-premium, small-batch bourbons, or rye whiskey, which has come back in style, while Maker's Mark's is one of the top-selling whiskys (behind Jack Daniels and Jim Beam). NYC Maker's Mark Distillery Diplomat Stephen Yorsz says crafty cocktailians who roll their eyes at Maker's are missing out. "Don't confuse commercial success with lack of quality," he said.
Stephen admits he has a pretty "cheddar" job--touting Maker's Mark is not a hard sell--after all, it's an American icon with its red wax seal and loyal fan base. Audrey Saunders of Pegu Club calls Maker's Mark "incredible bourbon that created and defined the premium bourbon category."
Given Stephen's background as a bartender for hotspots such as Home, Guesthouse, and STK, it's not surprising that he wants to bring Maker's into trendier enclaves like Simyone Lounge (formerly Lotus). While Stephen credits the cocktail renaissance with encouraging more people to break out of their vodka comfort zone and try brown spirits, he doesn't see why bourbon can't move from places like Employees Only into the nightlife scene as well, where Grey Goose and Patron still rule. At the same time, he takes pride in the brand's history as a no-nonsense spirit.
"Maker's Mark is premium, but not exclusive," he said. "Anyone from Joe Schmo to Heidi Klum will drink it because they like it. And that's the beauty of it--it's a common thread--the camaraderie over the one product."
Dizzy Recap: Day Two of the Manhattan Cocktail Classic
"The Sunday Mercury says that if you are at a hotel, and wish to call for a beverage compounded of brandy, sugar, absynthe, bitters, and ice, called by the vulgar a cocktail, ask for une queue de chanticleer--it will be an evidence at once of your knowledge of French and of Chesterfield."-- The New Orleans Daily Picayune, February 2, 1843, p.2 [Transcribed by David Wondrich]
[Better late than never:]
Day two of the Manhattan Cocktail Classic (and by day, I really mean an afternoon that stretched into a late night) was a never-ending smorgasboard of boozy deliciousness capped off with a glittering gala that everyone is still talking about.
My afternoon began innocently enough with David Wondrich's seminar, "History of the Cocktail in New York, 1810-1920." The handout given out prior to the event innocently read, "liquid exhibits will be served." Actually, five re-created artifacts were served, and given their potency, those pre-Prohibitioners were no nancies when it came to getting their imbibe on. Beginning with the circa-1820 "Willard's Gin Cock-tail," a simple mix of genever (Holland gin), a lump of sugar, bitters, ice, and grated nutmeg, to the "Modern Cocktail" served in 1910 (scotch, sloe gin, absinthe, lemon juice, simple syrup, and bitters), it was interesting to learn how early bartenders became inspired by foreign influences, such as the French with their vermouth and the Japanese with their flavored syrups. I especially enjoyed the "Manhattan Club Manhattan," circa-1870 (1 1/2 oz. rye whisky, 1 1/2 oz. sweet vermouth, dash orange bitters, and lemon peel garnish). Clearly, there's a reason why this classic cocktail, the first to use vermouth, has stood the test of time--it's empowering and delicious.
The empowerment continued at the official bar at Astor Center, where I guzzled a frothy "Great Lawn Sour" pisco sour mixed by Jeremy Thompson of Raines Law Room, followed by an exclusive tasting of Jason Kosmas' Employees Only-brand grenadine and lime cordial, to be released early next year. Made from organic ingredients with a carefully-tuned viscosity ideal for hard shaking, I predict that these modifiers will be on many a cocktail menu next spring.
After a much-needed rejuvenation nap and change into my party dress, I made way for the New York Public Library where the Manhattan Cocktail Classic's main event, the "Spectacular" gala, drew a crowd of 1,000 willing to shell out $100 per ticket. Most attendees chose Gatsby-esque or 19th century wear, sipping drinks from more than a dozen bars. Sponsors included Absolut Vodka, Maker's Mark, Hendrick's Gin, Crop Organic Vodka, Ketel One Vodka, Tanqueray Gin, Don Q Rum, Gran Marnier, Bombay Dry Gin, Bacardi Rum, Aperol, Zacapa Rum, Bulleit Bourbon, Don Julio Tequila, and Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur. There was also a massive amount of delicacies on hand, including an oyster bar, roasted suckling pigs, smoked fish from Russ & Daughters, and cheeses from Stinky Bklyn. Swing dancing and swanky hobnobbing were the order of the night--this was an event not to be missed! (But if you did, you better be on the lookout for the grand event happening May 14-18!)
Dizzy Recap: Manhattan Cocktail Classic, Day One
A cocktail should be consumed quickly, "while it's still laughing at you"--Harry Craddock, American bartender and author of "The Savoy Cocktail Book," circa 1930.
Of all of the bustling corners in America where working men and women have enjoyed a stiff tipple since the early 19th Century, no metropolis has done more for the history of the cocktail than New York City [hey, David Wondrich said it, not me], so it was fitting that this past weekend's Manhattan Cocktail Classic preview went off without a hitch. There's so much to digest (believe me, my liver is still working on it) from all of the seminars, tastings, and parties, that it's hard to believe that this was just a two-day affair. Based on the success of the weekend, I can't imagine how much of a knockout the grand event, taking place May 14-18, will be.
On day one, I arrived at Astor Center just in time to sit in on "Have Cocktail Shaker, Will Travel," led by Charlotte Voisey of Hendrick's Gin, Simon Ford of Plymouth Gin, and St. John Frizell of Redhook bar Fort Defiance. This seminar covered the enthralling period when New York mixologists took their craft overseas, both before, during, and after Prohibition. Before the 1920s, bartending was taken very seriously in the States, and mixologists had a much-respected, if not celebrity status that was well-received across the world. Charlotte spoke of London's reverence for cocktails during the Prohibition era, and how American bartenders came over and loosened things up a bit, especially Harry Craddock who was head bartender at the American Bar at the Savoy Hotel during the 1920s and 1930s. Since Craddock is believed to have created the "White Lady," that was our first cocktail of the seminar (gin, Cointreau, lemon juice). Simon followed with stories about "Professor" Jerry Thomas, considered the father of American mixology, who brought his showman style of bartending across the U.S. and Europe before settling back in New York in the 1860s. To commemorate Thomas, we drank the gin "Daisy" (gin, orgeat syrup, maraschino, lemon juice). Then St. John Frizell gave an enthusiastic account of the life of Charles H. Baker Jr., a traveling bon vivant famous for writing "The Gentleman's Companion Vo. I & II" in 1939. St. John has done extensive research into Baker's life and offered insight into how the writer used his inheritance money to travel the world on round-the-world cruises that were popular for featuring "flapper pirate"-themed parties. Baker, who hung out with the likes of Ernest Hemingway and William Faulkner, recorded better than anyone the exotic recipes of what people were drinking and eating during his time. We tried one such concoction, the "Barbados Buck" (rum, ginger beer, lime juice), which was a tropical number, indeed.
After a much-needed lunch with a few of the ladies of LUPEC NYC, I returned for another round of seminars, starting with Sasha Petraske's "Cocktails for Your Home Cocktail Party." Sasha's primary message was that if you are going to throw a decent cocktail party, you must have decent ice. For proper cocktails, the storebought bag of ice or the ice cube trays that have absorbed the flavors of the contents of your freezer (God forbid, fishsticks) will simply not suffice. Sasha recommends cleaning out your freezer in advance, making an ice block using a plastic tray, cracking the ice before your shindig, and then refreezing it until used. Other factors to take into consideration are the amount of glassware you will need, your dishwashing capacity, and how much liquor to buy (expect to serve five drinks per guest, if you're throwing a rager). Sasha explained one easy way to keep glasses chilled during a cocktail party--employ a 19th Century method of creating a grid of glasses on top of a bar table, filling the first row with ice water and the second row with ice. By the time you need the glasses in the second row, the ice will have melted into ice water, which you can then toss before filling with the cocktail. Other tips and tricks: have four to six cocktail shaker sets on hand (as well as citrus peelers, bar spoons, citrus knives, and julep strainers), keep juice as fresh as possible by squeezing small (no more than 12-oz.) batches at a time, and for goodness sakes, taste your drinks before you serve them to guests. As examples of drinks that could easily be served at a home cocktail party, we tried the "Bee's Knees" (gin, honey syrup, lemon juice) and the "Silver Fizz" (gin, egg white, superfine sugar, soda water, lemon juice). It was great to hear Sasha admit that when Milk & Honey first opened, drinks were made so meticulously that some customers waited up to 20 minutes for their drinks, which he now regrets. "No drink in the world is worth waiting 20 minutes for," he said.
I then caught the tail end of "The Many Faces of Cognac and Armagnac" with F. Paul Pacult, Charlotte Voisey, and Julie Reiner. Cognac and Armagnac, France's legendary brandies, use virtually the same grape varieties but are made differently. Cognac’s wines are turned into spirit through double distillation in an old-style pot still, while Armagnac is distilled only once in an unusual still that is a hybrid of a pot and a column still. I arrived just in time to try Julie's Cognac cocktail (Martell Cordon Bleu Cognac, Calvados Apple Brandy, sherry, Gran Marnier, orange bitters) and Charlotte's Armagnac cocktail (Armagnac, apricot jam, orgeat syrup, Solerno blood orange liqueur, lemon juice, orange bitters), which were both delicious.
Downtime was spent at the event's official bar at Astor, where more than a dozen different cocktails were served each day, mixed by ROGUE Events' who's-who of bartending in NYC and beyond. This was also a great place to meet friends old and new, and to try a few new spirits. Compass Box Brand Ambassador Robin Robinson offered me an exclusive taste of Spice Tree, which officially launches later this month. Controversial for its non-traditional Scotch-making process (formerly the use of French Oak inner staves), Spice Tree is now made using three different levels of toasting on the French Oak barrel heads, offering layers of complexity. The long finish was rich, boldly spicy, and warming, which was perfect for the rainy day. I also enjoyed a taste of Skinos Mastiha Spirit, a clear malt spirit made from the aromatic sap collected from mastiha, or mastic, trees on the Greek island of Chios. Uniquely nectar-like without being cloyingly sweet, the Skinos has a shochu-like mouthfeel with a subtly floral finish.
As if that weren't enough imbibing for the day, the evening's festivities were not to be missed. The brand-spaking-new Crosby Street Hotel (79 Crosby St.) was host to the launch party for Gary "Gaz" Regan's latest book, "The Bartender's Gin Compendium." Libations, sponsored by Plymouth Gin and Beefeater London Dry Gin, were mixed by Jamie Gordon, Chris Patino, and Dan Warner. I was stoked to have my copy of Gary's book signed by the man himself, hobnob with spirits writers from Imbibe magazine and the Village Voice, as well as chat a bit with Dale de Groff, "King of Cocktails."
Keep an eye out for my round-up of day two of the Cocktail Classic, coming soon. I offer a hat-tip and curtsy to Lesley Townsend and ROGUE Events for serving 18,000 people over the weekend and organizing such a memorable affair!
The Manhattan Cocktail Classic, Brought to You by ROGUE Events
Are you tingling with anticipation for this weekend's Manhattan Cocktail Classic preview event? While you are deciding which vintage hat to wear, dozens of the industry's best cocktailians are shopping for ingredients, batching drinks, and plotting your inevitable intoxication. Not only will the Manhattan Cocktail Classic be the first NYC-based cocktail gathering, but the Oct. 3-4 festival will see the launch of ROGUE Events, a merger between two of the country's most successful cocktail consulting firms, Contemporary Cocktails Inc. and aka wine geek. ROGUE, which is handling logistics for the event, is putting 50 of the best bartenders from around the U.S. to work for the weekend, said Willy Shine, who is co-founder of Contemporary Cocktails with Aisha Sharpe. "I wouldn't be surprised if close to 10,000 cocktails will be served throughout the weekend," said Willy, who is so busy at the moment that he barely has a minute to breathe, let alone answer my questions.
Aka wine geek was founded by Steve Olson, one of the top fine beverage experts and writers in the U.S., with the goal to offer consulting and education services that make tasting fun and remove the pretense. Andy Seymour, a star mixologist who has used fresh ingredients in his cocktails long before it became trendy, is Steve's business partner and a mentor in his own right as a faculty member with BAR (Beverage Alcohol Resource).
Willy Shine and Aisha Sharpe are star mixologists who encourage a culinary approach to mixing drinks. Not only do they create cocktail menus for some of the finest restaurants, bars, and hotels worldwide, they also supervise the BAR program and put on events for top brands and celebrities alike.
Bottlerocker of the Week: Orson Salicetti
"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."--Fernand Point, a French restaurateur considered the father of modern French cuisine
If you haven't yet wandered down the narrow Chinatown street leading to the former opuim den-turned-Parisian-style apothecary bar Apotheke, you really are missing out on one of New York's most hidden treasures. If you are lucky, you'll open the ornate doors to see 2009 Star Chefs Rising Stars-winning mixologist Orson Salicetti behind the bar in his lab coat, mixing his exotic tinctures and infusions (made from ingredients such as dried fruits from Corsica) into dizzying treats.
Orson, who grew up in Caracas, Venezuela, developed his culinary approach to cocktail making thanks to the influence of his mother, a chef and restaurateur. He moved to NYC in 2001, and after a stint in Miami, he returned to New York to tend bar at Rayuela and Islero, where he met Albert Trummer. Albert, an Austrian bar chef/master mixologist, is the propietor of Apotheke, and Orson, as head bartender, is the backbone of the operation. Orson says he appreciates Albert's innovative approach to mixing drinks and for giving him the freedom to source fresh, rare ingredients. Watching Orson mix drinks, and knowing that he made his modifiers by hand, it is clear that he takes an artistic, if not poetic, approach to the craft. For his Tomato Basil Martini recently served at the Star Chefs gala, Orson first rimmed the glass in a mix of Himalayan salt, fennel seeds, star anise, and sambuca--and that was just the garnish!
"The Dizzy Dozen" (The Same 12 Questions We Always Ask) With Orson Salicetti
Q: What is the first thing you drink after you wake up? A: A glass of water (I prefer sparkling water with a lemon) and an espresso.
Q: What is the first thing you drink after a hard day's work? A: My own Negroni (Plymouth Gin, Antica Formula Carpano, and Campari with my own bitters and an orange zest).
Q: What is the most delicious ingredient in your liquor cabinet? A: For my liquors I have a special edition Santa Tereza Rum, I also have a Corsica dried fruit bitters I love, and sweet plum.
Q: If you could sit at the bar between any two people (alive or deceased), who would they be? A: My dad and my grandfather.
Q: Three favorite NYC bars: • The bar at DBGB Kitchen & Bar because of the great selection of artisinal beers • The Rose Bar at the Gramercy Park Hotel for latenight and beautiful people • Apotheke--great cocktails!
Q: Three favorite non-alcoholic hangouts: • Il Buco at Bond Street • Five Points at Great Jones Street • Caracas Arepa Bar in Williamsburg
Q: Average night's sleep: A: I usually sleep around six hours, and a lucky night seven. During vacations, all day!
Q: What is your favorite place to shop for your bar? A: Union Square Greenmarket, where they have the best selection of fresh botanicals, fruits, and vegetables.
Q: Where do you find inspiration? A: First from my mentor, my mother, and second from the kitchen--aromas, flavors, and memories.
Q: If you woke up on a desert island, what bottle would you hope to have wash ashore? A: Sparkling water with a fresh lemon inside.
Q: Do you have any bar-related good luck charms? A: My Japanese jigger (it's a very special present).
Q: Do you have a nickname for yourself when you've had too many? A: Astano.
The Ultimate Bar Crawl: Google Map of NYC Cocktail Bars
[googlemaps http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=108768800971095547761.000473ca35182c85643c6&ll=40.748297,-73.977814&spn=0.097224,0.075105&iwloc=0004746a731b9330ba7c6&output=embed&w=425&h=350] Just in time for all of those out-of-town visitors arriving for the upcoming Manhattan Cocktail Classic, I've taken a moment to put my list of NYC Cocktail Bars into Google Map format for your traveling and drinking pleasure. From Allen & Delancey to Yerba Buena, from Chinatown to Redhook, there are plenty of places in the city to get your cocktail fix. So why not get started this weekend? Please let me know if there are any bars that I have left out or that should not be on there. Cheers!
Dizzy Recap: Classic & Vintage Artisanal Spirits Launch
Aware that the Tippling Bros. would be in charge of the drink offerings, I was revved up to attend last week's Classic & Vintage Artisanal Spirits launch party at the Classic Car Club of Manhattan hosted by Domaine Select Wine Estates. The Classic & Vintage collection is a line of boutique products including: Averna, G'vine, Death's Door, Tuthilltown, Benromach, Ransom Old Tom Gin, Rhum J.M., and The Bitter Truth Bitters, plus many more. This is an unprecedented collection of rare small-batch gems made available to the masses, greatly due to the increasing interest in classic cocktails.
This event was one of the better-organized cocktail parties I have seen in a while, and the Tippling Bros' (Tad Carducci and Paul Tanguay) event planning skills really shined, as did the stunning collection of classic cars. Tad and Paul are brand ambassadors for the Classic & Vintage collection, and they gathered top mixologists to mix drinks for the event: Danny Valdez (New Orleans), Sean Kenyon (Denver), Misty Kalkofen (Boston), Justin Noel (NYC), Jason Littrell (NYC), Tonia Guffey (NYC), Frank Cisneros (NYC), and Gianfranco Verga (NYC).
One highlight for me was that I got to try Ransom Old Tom Gin for the first time. Created by Sheridan, Ore. winemaker/distiller Tad Seestedt with the input of cocktail historian David Wondrich, Ransom has yet to launch on the shelves of NYC. The gin manages to marry maltiness and herbaceous sweetness (orange, cardamom, juniper) magnificently.
Ransom is based on 18th century distillation and aging methods, and Tad has sought to make the most historically-accurate Old Tom Gin in the world. The base wort uses malted barley to impart a subtle malty sweetness, and the final distillation is run through an alembic pot-still for maximum aromatics. Then the whole batch rests in neutral Pinot Noir barrels for texture and color. The gin has a warm golden tinge to it, and I have to say, I love the apothecary-style bottle design. Sipping it neat was pure pleasure, and I could also imagine it working perfectly in a Martinez.
Last Summer Rooftop Party: Veev at A60
Even though it's 80 degrees and sunny today, according to the calendar, summer has said adios for now. Gratefully, the weather was also slammin' for last week's "end of summer" cocktail gathering thrown by Veev at A60, the rooftop lounge of 60 Thompson Hotel. As I'm sure you know by now (or see here and here), Veev is a wheat grain spirit flavored with acai, prickly pear, and acerola cherry. Naturally, the drinks on hand at the party were lightly sweet and refreshing, such as the VeeViolette (Veev, Creme de Violette, lemon juice, mint), the Brazilian Silent Night (Veev, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, pear puree, prosecco), and the Cran-Acai Crush (Veev, cranberry juice, peach liqueur, lemon juice, prosecco). The cocktails went down easy and were a great way to toast the end of the season, and I look forward to seeing what Veev has in store for fall. Many thanks to Killy Smith of Veev for the invite!
Dizzy Recap: Bärenjäger Throwdown
Perhaps you have already heard that congratulations are in order to Kevin Diedrich of Clover Club for taking the grand prize at the first-ever Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur New York bärtending competition held earlier this week. His winning drink, "The Bottom Line," featured Bärenjäger with Highland Park 18, Manzilla Sherry, Cio Ciaro, orange bitters, and Angostura bitters. NoHo special-events-only speakeasy Woodson & Ford (643 Broadway) was host to the throwdown, where the vintage parlor decor was upstaged by a life-sized taxidermied black bear. The prop was in reference to the honey liqueur's heritage as a 15th century aid for hunters to lure bears from their dwellings. Made in Germany, the 70 proof vodka-based honey liqueur is made with honey sourced from the Mexican province of Yucatan.
Six New York bartenders competed in two rounds--first up was Neil Grosscup of Country Club, Meaghan Dorman of Raines Law Room, and Kevin. Neil offered "The Limburg," with Bärenjäger, Bols Genever, pressed apple juice, mint, and lemon juice, while Meaghan mixed the honey liqueur with Pimm's No. 1, Rittenhouse Rye, Angostura bitters, and lemon juice for the "Five in the Hive." The second round included Jonathan Pogash of Hospitality Holdings, Bradley Farran of Clover Club, and the people's choice winner, Gerry Corcoran of PDT. Jonathan made "The Bee Sting" with Bärenjäger, Laphroaig, Fernet-Branca, egg white, tangerine juice, and Peychaud's bitters; Bradley mixed the honey liqueur with tequila reposado, lemon juice, Cynar, and crème de cacao for "El Oso Agridulce;" and Gerry whipped up the “Bäre Fizz" with Bärenjäger, Famous Grouse scotch, fig preserves, lemon juice, and egg white, topped with Toasted Lager beer.
The judges for the event certainly knew what they were doing: mixologist and spirits aficionado Allen Katz of Southern Wine & Spirits; mixology icon Gary Regan of ArdentSpirits.com; cocktail maven Julie Reiner of Clover Club and Flatiron Lounge; one of the foremost spirits trade writers, Jack Robertiello; and Aisha Sharpe of Contemporary Cocktails, Inc. Judges based scores on taste, appearance, creativity, and overall delivery.
Kevin, whose drink the judges said was "an instant classic," won an all-expense trip paid for two to Oktoberfest 2009 in Munich, Germany. Kevin’s previous bartending experience includes Bourbon and Branch, Michael Mina’s Clock Bar, CASK, Beverage Academy, The Ritz Carleton and Bourbon Steak. Gerry received tickets to the Yankees. " The Bottom Line" by Kevin Diedrich: ¾ parts Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur 1 ½ parts Highland Park 18 1 part Manzanilla Sherry ¼ parts Cio Ciaro 1 dash orange bitters 1 dash Angostura bitters Add all ingredients to mixing glass, ice and stir strain into chilled cocktail glass. “Bäre Fizz" by Gerry Corcoran: .5 parts Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur 2 parts Famous Grouse Scotch 1 part fresh lemon juice 2-3 parts Toasted Lager beer 1 egg white 1 barspoon fig preserves 1 slice of fig for garnish
Dry shake all the ingredients except the lager, add ice, and shake again. Double strain into a chilled highball glass, top with the toasted lager beer and garnish with a slice of fig.
Elsewhere in the Liquiverse...
- Following the success of this summer's Jazz Age Lawn Party, Michael Arenella and his Dreamland Orchestra are throwing one last 1920's-themed bash for the year on Governor's Island, featuring St-Germain cocktails. Sunday, Sept. 27, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. $5.
- Red Hook's Fort Defiance is temporarily closed due to some technical difficulties. Keep an eye on the website for the reopening, which will involve a new food menu.
- Domain de Canton is accepting recipes using its ginger liqueur for its 2010 Bartender of the Year competition, which holds its final round in St. Martin and awards $10,000. The 2009 winner was John Lermayer of The Florida Room in Miami. Deadline is Sept. 30.
- New iPhone Apps for Drinkers: F. Paul Pacult’s iWhiskey puts 600-plus whiskey reviews in your pocket for only $10.99, and Nirvino's Wine Ratings Guide offers 1 million wine reviews for $1.99.
Bottlerocker of the Week: Meaghan Dorman
"Because I am a woman, I must make unusual efforts to succeed. If I fail, no one will say, 'She doesn't have what it takes.' They will say, 'Women don't have what it takes.' --Clare Boothe Luce, playwright and one of the first women in Congress
There are plenty of talented female mixologists in NYC, but do you know who they are? Thanks to mentors such as Audrey Saunders of Pegu Club, Julie Reiner of Clover Club, Charlotte Voisey of Hendrick's Gin, and Aisha Sharpe of Contemporary Cocktails, there's a slew of bartenders shaking things up in the boy's club. Since the days when women were not allowed in bars to more recent times when bartending involved more bouncer-type duties and heavy lifting, female bartenders have had to work hard to be taken seriously as mixologists. Now that mixing drinks is more about flavor combinations and individual style, there's no reason why a female bartender can't make a cocktail that tastes just as good (if not better) as one a man would make.
So last week it was great to visit Meaghan Dorman, head bartender of Raines Law Room and a founding member of the brand new New York City chapter of LUPEC (Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails). Meaghan said it became apparent that New York should have its own chapter of LUPEC because the Boston chapter, founded by Misty Kalkofen in 2007, does such a good job of promoting female-oriented cocktail culture. Meaghan said LUPEC NYC, led by Zacapa rum ambassador Lynette Marrero, plans to enhance the community of local women in the spirits/cocktail industry through charity work, education, and events.
When she is not mixing cocktails, Meaghan contributes to several publications as a spirits journalist, and she's even a fellow blogger, with SpiritMeAway.com, and a fellow Examiner. Formerly the spirits/leisure editor of KING magazine, she has also contributed to Penthouse, XXL and Vain magazines. Meaghan began bartending in New Haven, Conn., while attending Southern Connecticut State University. She moved to New York six years ago and has juggled bar gigs with stints in the music and media industries. If you want to visit Meaghan at Raines Law Room (48 W. 17th St.), keep in mind that the lounge has 45 seats, so call ahead and make a reservation, 212.242.0600.
"The Dizzy Dozen: The Same 12 Questions We Always Ask" With Meaghan Dorman Q: What is the first thing you drink after you wake up? A: A big glass of water immediately followed by a bigger cup of coffee. On a hangover day, for some reason I crave Pepsi in a can.
Q: What is the first thing you drink after a hard day's work? A: After a long night I like a stiff, sipping drink. Lately I've been drinking an Old-Fashioned variation that is equal parts Zacapa 23 and Elijah Craig 18 with some peach and angostura bitters. We call it an "Amber Old-Fashioned," after the cocktail server I first made it for.
Q: What is the most delicious ingredient in your liquor cabinet? A: I love Martin Miller's Westbourne, and it's great for making simple but tasty drinks at home.
Q: If you could sit at the bar between any two people (alive or deceased), who would they be? A: Ada Coleman (former leading lady of The American Bar at the Savoy Hotel) and my lovely twin because she is always a good time and I don't get to see her enough.
Q: Three favorite NYC bars: • Milk & Honey: Because I always enjoy the Mickey and Sammy show.
• Death & Co: Love a place with great drinks and food. Even my friends that don't care much about cocktails are always impressed and have a great time.
• King Cole Bar at the St Regis: I love old hotel bars and this one has a lot of history and class.
Q: Three favorite non-alcoholic hangouts: • Branford, Connecticut, with my family
• Fort Tryon dog park with my pug
• Strolling the tiny side streets in the village and daydreaming about real estate
Q: Average night's sleep: A: A lady needs her beauty rest! I always try to get 6-8 hours of sleep.
Q: What is your favorite place to shop for your bar? A: We are lucky to be so close to the Union Square Farmer's Market. We had a lot of fun buying local fruit and syrups this summer.
Q: Where do you find inspiration? A: Really anywhere, but especially seeing what people drink in old movies and books. I like reading old recipes and adjusting measurements and ingredients to make it something I really love.
Q: If you woke up on a desert island, what bottle would you hope to have wash ashore? A: It would have be something easy to drink neat, and I think a nice aged rum would fit the bill. I love aged rums that a have coffee/chocolate profile like Zacapa XO and Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva.
Q: Do you have any bar-related good luck charms? A: I'm not superstitious about anything, but I do have a habit of collecting way more cocktail glasses than I'll ever use.
Q: Do you have a nickname for yourself when you've had too many? A: Not so much for when I'm out (I'm lucky to have Irish drinking genes), but my friend has a saying I've adopted about the day after a night of alcoholic indulgence being a "Hologram Day" because you're barely there.
Bottlerocker of the Week: Maxwell Britten
"If you really want to hear about it, the first thing you'll probably want to know is where I was born and what my lousy childhood was like, and how my parents were occupied and all before they had me, and all that David Copperfield kind of crap, but I don't feel like going into it, if you want to know the truth."--Holden Caulfield, "The Catcher in the Rye"
I recently sat down at Freemans, and Maxwell Britten, a 2009 Star Chefs Rising Stars-winning mixologist, was behind the stick. Unlike Holden Caulfiend, Maxwell, a creative writing student who has lived in NYC since 2005, certainly has not had a lousy childhood. Growing up with a passionate epicurean and food & beverage professional for a father (Eric S. Britten), Maxwell has been surrounded by food and spirits since he was old enough to handle a fork and a knife.
Despite what sounds like silver spoon-fed beginnings, he started out as a busboy at Jack the Horse Tavern in Brooklyn Heights in 2006 and pulled through the ranks to become head bartender and beverage director within a year--all while finally turning of legal drinking age. Craft bartending became Maxwell's passion when a copy of "The Gentlemen's Companion, V.1 & 2 Around the World with a Fork, Knife and Spoon; Around the World with a Jigger, Beaker, and Flask" by Charles H. Baker Jr., was handed to him by St. John Frizzell (now owner of Fort Defiance in Red Hook) in the fall of 2007. Maxwell also studied with Damon Dyer of Flatiron Lounge, took the BarSmarts course, and has twice been a cocktail apprentice at Tales of the Cocktail--so he's more than done his homework. Now running a food and drink consulting firm, Jigger, Beaker & Flask, with his older brother, Jeremy Osslund, Maxwell is a notable bottlerocker in NYC's cocktailian scene, but he's not letting it go to his head, he says.
"The Dizzy Dozen: The Same 12 Questions We Always Ask" With Maxwell Britten
Q: What is the first thing you drink after you wake up?
A: A big, HUGE cup of nice cold water, occasionally (depends on what I was up to before bedtime), or a Coke over hand cracked ice with a lime wedge. Or an iced Americano from the coffee shop around the corner of my apartment, Glass Shop, shout out to Francesco!
Q: What is the first thing you drink after a hard day's work?
A: An ice cold brewsky. I might have a nip of Rittenhouse depending on how hard my night was.
Q: What is the most delicious ingredient in your liquor cabinet?
A: Probably the Lasanta by Glenmorangie. I recently finished a bottle of the Cuvée Homére by Rhum Clément with some world-class scumbags (bartenders) just before moving into my new apartment. I think I have a Budweiser or Brooklyn Lager in the fridge, those are pretty delicious too.
Q: If you could sit at the bar between any two people (alive or deceased), who would they be?
A: Charles H. Baker Jr., and my Dad.
Q: Three favorite NYC bars:
• Prime Meats: Styled after a German beer hall, excellent beers on draught, good bartenders, great eats, and the kitchen stays open until 2 a.m., which is a rarity in Brooklyn.
• Fort Defiance: Counter-culture coffee, St. John Frizell, great bites, in the heart of Red Hook, great menu—just a classic, check it out!
• Milk & Honey: Too easy, right?
Q: Three favorite non-alcoholic hangouts:
• Prospect Park at sunset
• The Met
• Fairway in Red Hook. I swear I don't live in Red Hook—there is just some great stuff down there.
Q: Average night's sleep:
A: Lately, 6 1/2-7 hours, and I have been in bed before 2 a.m. most nights these days.
Q: What is your favorite place to shop for your bar?
A: It was once Lenelle's (in Red Hook!), which is no longer open. Astor Wines is pretty good. Sometimes doing a gig is good shopping—then again, I can't remember the last time I actually had to buy the booze myself.
Q: Where do you find inspiration?
A: The kitchen, text books, bar manuals, characters in novels, movies, music, fashion, food, and most importantly, the ass-kicking bartenders you can find around the world these days.
Q: If you woke up on a desert island, what bottle would you hope to have wash ashore?
A: A gallon of chilled water. If you were hoping for a bottle of booze, then I guess I would hope for some rum, maybe Appleton VX? Jamaican rum calls for the occasion, and it's just really easy on the palate. If there is no ice and I am on a desert island, I might not want to be sippin’ on warm/hot hooch.
Q: Do you have any bar-related good luck charms?
A: No, but from time to time I might put a dash of aromatic bitters behind the ears when I am feeling like I want to impress the ladies. Some barkeeps I know say it's good luck in competitions, I just like the way it makes me smell. It's almost like really great-smelling cologne. People will be like, "You smell magnificent," and I'll say, "Thanks, just a little limited-edition Repeal Day Bitters by The Bitter Truth, no biggee."
Q: Do you have a nickname for yourself when you've had too many?
A: Yeah, it's "French Exit"—that’s when you peace out without saying anything to anyone you're with and in some occasions, not paying your bill—I swear the only person I do that to is Jason Littrell [of The Randolph] and that’s because he is the mad man behind the most debaucherous bar in Manhattan. Sometimes it's safer just to leave before he tries to give you another pickle back. In a conversation with him last week about my most recent "French Exit," I go, "I am sorry man, I REALLY needed to go home, I could barely talk." He says, "Well, you could still drink, so that’s not good enough for me.”
Tickets & Details Announced for The Manhattan Cocktail Classic
I just received the press release announcing the schedule for The Manhattan Cocktail Classic:
NEW YORK, August 20, 2009—The Manhattan Cocktail Classic, New York City’s first-ever multi-day celebration of all things cocktail-related, today announced the details of its Fall Preview seminar series, which will take place during the day on October 3-4, 2009, at Astor Center in New York City. The seminars will be led by members of the Manhattan Cocktail Classic Advisory Board, which includes legendary mixologists, cocktail historians, spirits critics and writers, and speak-easy impresarios. Each seminar will be individually ticketed for $50, available through the website at www.manhattancocktailclassic.com beginning on September 7, 2009.
“I am very excited about the topics we have lined up for the Fall Preview,” said Lesley Townsend, Founder and Director of the Manhattan Cocktail Classic. “It’s an unbelievable honor to have our Advisory Board members kicking off our event in this regard. Our hope is that this series will inspire the rest of the spirits and cocktail community to come forth with their own ideas for presentations for the first annual event in May of 2010.”
The seminar schedule is as follows:
Saturday, October 3, 2009
“Have Cocktail Shaker, Will Travel” with Charlotte Voisey & Simon Ford: Once the last legal cocktail was served on the eve of Prohibition in New York City, things would never be the same again. ‘Have cocktail shaker, will travel’ was the mindset of many a passionate barkeep in the 1920s when their craftsmanship turned criminal. Join Charlotte Voisey, Simon Ford, and other assorted friends for a jovial discussion on how New York has been influencing cocktail culture around the world for many years. Liquid refreshments will be served.
“Cocktails for Your Home Cocktail Party” with Sasha Petraske: Famed (and oft-elusive) owner and proprietor of Milk and Honey, Sasha Petraske will demonstrate the basics of creating cocktails in the home. He will go over how to set up and stock home bars of varying degrees of seriousness, as well as cover different scenarios of cocktail entertaining – from temporarily taking over your friend’s kitchen for a house party, to grabbing the reins at a fully-equipped bar. And of course, Sasha will teach you how to prepare some basic, ever-pleasing libations for these occasions. Participants will leave armed with a no-fail recipe list and a short set of directions for preparing basic cocktails with block ice and fresh juices.
“The Agave Session: The Magical Elixirs of Mexico” with Steve Olson and Special Guests: There is a heritage and culture associated with Tequila and Mezcal that dates back well over a thousand years, when the agave plant – also known as the maguey – was utilized by Mexico’s native peoples for virtually everything: from food and drink, to sugar, to shoes, soap, building supplies, and even medicine. Join us for an exciting tasting of this exotic elixir, each by artisan producers, as we pay homage to the heritage, history and culture of Mexico’s national spirit. It is also likely that agave-based libations will be consumed.
“The Many Faces of Cognac & Armagnac” with Julie Reiner, Charlotte Voisey & F. Paul Pacult: This one-time-only, comprehensive seminar joins celebrated master mixologists Julie Reiner and Charlotte Voisey with America’s spirits guru F. Paul Pacult on an extraordinary excursion deep into France's legendary AOC grape brandies, Cognac and Armagnac. Participants will first be taken on a guided tour of tasting a half-dozen remarkable brandies to see how these distilled and oak-matured cousins compare and contrast. Then, they will be treated to a Cognac cocktail, made by Julie, and an Armagnac cocktail, made by Charlotte. A rare opportunity to spend 90 minutes with three of America's most engaging spirits and cocktail personalities.
“History of the Cocktail in New York, 1810-1920” with Dave Wondrich: Among all the classes of American mixed drinks—the Cobblers, Sours, Fizzes, Coolers, Juleps and all the rest—the Cocktail stands as first among equals. If there’s something about a quick jolt of ice-cold, mixed-up boozy deliciousness that’s essentially American, then it’s quintessentially New York. And indeed, while many other cities have made key contributions to the Cocktail’s development, none has done so much as to shape it as Gotham. This seminar will attempt to track the interventions the city’s mixologists made in the idea of the Cocktail during the 110-odd years between its first documented appearance here and Prohibition. Liquid exhibits will be served.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
“Audrey and Gary’s Unparalleled Gin Palaver” with Audrey Saunders & Gary Regan: Audrey Saunders, Libation Goddess from New York’s Pegu Club, and perhaps the bartender most responsible for the resurgence of gin in the 21st century, will join Gary “gaz” Regan, author of The Joy of Mixology (2003) and The Bartender’s Gin Compendium (Fall 2009), to present gin-based cocktails, old, new, borrowed, and, well, you get the picture. They will wax lyrical on all things juniper; they will pontificate endlessly about the attributes of the Martini and of the MarTEAni, and they will display the splendor of cocktails made with dry gin, genever, Plymouth gin, and a most peculiar Old Tom. It’s probable that Saunders and Regan will flirt shamelessly throughout the workshop. The throwing of rotting fruit or vegetables will not be permitted.
“Glasses & Tools: How Do You Choose the Right Glass for a Drink?” with Dale DeGroff: The choice of glass can mean the difference between a successful and elegant drink, or a glass of booze. In a commercial operation, the choice of glass can impact dramatically on the bottom line. At the home bar, the choice of glass can have an impact on the success of your cocktail party, and the well-being of your guests. Explore the classics with Dale DeGroff as he culls his glass collection to find the perfect glass for well-known classics and the tools to make them successfully.
“Call of the Rye” with Allen Katz: Ryes, Ryes my beloved, Meet me down by The Bowery. There will I give you my love. By history and culture, With song, per chance dance, A Savor to be kissed by kisses. O, my dear, come… Ryes at the day break. As the shadows enter over Astor. Awake. Inhale. O friends, drink, yea, drink abundantly, O, beloved.
“Sherry: The Cobbler and Beyond” with Andy Seymour: Sherry has long played an important role in the world of mixology and has emerged in this new age of the cocktail more popular than ever. Join Master Mixologist and U.S. Sherry Ambassador Andy Seymour for a fascinating look at one of the world’s most cocktail (and food) friendly wines. Taste five of the finest Sherry, representing its many styles, and sample cocktails that show off Sherry’s traditional side and what it is up to today. Come ready to shake, as Andy will lead the group in building their own version of the Sherry cobbler!
About the Manhattan Cocktail Classic:
The Manhattan Cocktail Classic is New York City’s first ever multi-day event celebrating the history, contemporary culture, and artful craft of the cocktail. Part festival, part fête, part conference, part cocktail party, the Manhattan Cocktail Classic brings together the unparalleled talents and opportunities of the bars, bartenders, and restaurants of our great city for two days of activities, both educational and celebratory in nature, championing the common ideals of authenticity, equality, sustainability, service, and pleasure. (There will be some drinking involved, too.) For additional information, kindly visit http://www.manhattancocktailclassic.com .
And there you have it!