Dizzy Recap: The Six Dizziest Moments of 2009

So really, this recap only reflects the past seven months of 2009 since I started this blog in May, but so much radness went down that I thought the time period deserved some pause--including one event I haven't even recapped until now because life and too many cocktails got in the way (it happens to the best of us).

• Junior Merino's Liquid Lab (November): Holy hole in a lotus root, if you have been to Junior's lab you have truly tasted the rainbow.  Primarily for bartenders, this free, day-long experience at Junior's offices in the Bronx (sorry, no photos allowed) is a mix of mad cocktail science and blind tastings. On the day I attended, we tasted five different kinds of vodka, cachaca, rum, pisco, tequila, and mezcal, and we tasted everything twice. Tasting spirits twice (after lots of water and spitting) allowed my palate and brain to register more intense flavors. We then mixed cocktails using each type of spirit and pulled ingredients from Junior's seemingly endless supply of liquor, liqueurs, juices, syrups, bitters, fresh produce and herbs, garnishes, spices, salts--really anything you could imagine, it was there. Each cocktail we made included at least one sponsored ingredient--Combier Orange Liqueur, Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur, and Castries Peanut Rum. Being an amateur mixologist, this was a real treat for me, as was tasting the more experienced bartender's concoctions. My best drink (in my opinion) included: muddled pepquinos (tiny melons) and starfruit, habanero-infused Siembra Azul Tequila, Combier, The Liquid Chef Agave Nectar, lemon juice, and garnished with rock chives, starfruit, and The Liquid Chef Cactus & Lemongrass Salt on the rim. Some bartenders toyed with the liquid nitrogen, dry ice, and liquid smoke for more molecular experiments. A highlight for me was tasting the not-yet-released Creme Yvette, which offers a brilliant mix of berry and vanilla flavors. Another major highlight was the amazing lunch spread provided by Junior's wife, chef Heidi. If you are in the NYC area and are a working bartender, this is an opportunity not to be missed.
• World Cocktail Day (May): The day I got this blog up and running, and what a day it was! More than 20 of the country's top mixologists threw down at Pranna in celebration of the birthday of the cocktail.
• The Manhattan Cocktail Classic, Day 1 & Day 2 (October): Two days of expert sessions and tastings, followed by a blowout gala. This is one weekend that will probably be remembered as the event of the year for NYC cocktailians.
• WhiskyFest New York (November): Where I learned that there is no such thing as too much whisk(e)y. Why can't every day be WhiskyFest?
• 2nd Annual D.C. Repeal Day Ball (December): No better reason to put on a black-tie outfit than to celebrate the anniversary of Prohibition's end--and no better place to celebrate than the D.C. cocktail hub.
• The Dizzy Fizz Holiday Puncheon (December): C'mon, you know I had to put the puncheon on here! If you were there, you know; if you weren't, I'm sorry but you missed a damn fine time.

*Glaring omission: No, I was not at Tales of the Cocktail. Hopefully next year!

New Year's Eve in NYC is for Cocktail Lovers

"New Year's Day:  Now is the accepted time to make your regular annual good resolutions.  Next week you can begin paving hell with them as usual."--Mark Twain

How was your 2009? Mine was half crap, half amazing. I'm ok with that--discomfort breeds growth, and let's just say I had a lot of growth over the past decade. I'll be ringing in New Year's Eve 2010 with a Moroccan-inspired dinner and cocktail party at home with friends, followed by a few rounds at some of these cocktailian fêtes for a tip of the arm or two (or three):

• What's a new decade without a pre-party? Swing in 2010 a night early with "The Salon" at The Players Club featuring guest bartenders Eryn Reece (Rye House, Louis 649) and Loungerati's Fredo Ceraso as well as free Dewar's cocktails to the first 125 paying guests. Entertainment includes George Gee's Jump, Jivin' Wailers (10-piece band); Gelber and Manning vaudeville; burlesque tap dancing by Helen Pontani; burlesque by Pandora; and DJ Rikomatic. Tickets are $25 cash at the door. 8 p.m. to 2 a.m.
• Death & Co. is not only celebrating the New Year but also its three-year anniversary. Tickets are $125 per person (not including tax and tip) and include cocktails, champagne toast, bites, and dessert. 8 p.m. to 2 a.m. RSVP: nicole@deathandcompany.com (Tickets are almost gone!)
• Lexington Bar & Books is hosting an exclusive New Year's bash with a midnight champagne toast, hors d'oeuvres, and party favors for all. Plus you get to light up cigars inside, if that's your thing. Tickets are $25 in advance; $30 at the door. RSVP: (212) 717-3902. Proper attire requested. 9 p.m. to 5 a.m.
• Louis 649 is hosting a "No Bullsh*t" New Year's Eve with no cover, no doorman, no tickets, no pre-fixe--just bring your smiling faces. 8 p.m. to 7 a.m.
• The Summit Bar is throwing two parties in one--a "Disco 2010" party from 10 p.m. to 3 a.m. with DJ Kimiko, followed by a bar industry party from 3 a.m. to 8 a.m. with DJ D Sol. Head mixologist Greg Seider will be whipping up a spiced cranberry champagne drink and a New Year's punch. No cover, drinks are pay-as-you-go, and you can bring non-industry friends. RSVP: Hamid@thesummitbar.net

Also, if you're looking for food with your drink on New Year's, here's some restaurant suggestions. Cheers!

The Dizzy Fizz's Top 10 NYC Cocktail Bars to Open in 2009

This was really tough to narrow down, but in no particular order (not to sound like a kindergarten teacher, but they're all Number 1!), I found that these amazing new cocktail bars made NYC a better place to drink in 2009:

• Dutch Kills, 27-24 Jackson Ave., Long Island City.
• Prime Meats, 465 Court St., Brooklyn.
• Fort Defiance, 365 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn.
• Rye House, 11 W. 17th St.
• The Summit Bar, 133 Ave. C.
• Mayahuel, 304 E. 6th St.
• Raines Law Room, 48 W. 17th St.
• Roneria Caracas, 291 Grand St., Brooklyn.
• Highlands, 150 W. 10th St.
• Ward III, 111 Reade St.

*Honorable Mentions: Bar Celona, 118 S. 4th St., Brooklyn.; Minetta Tavern, 113 MacDougal St.; The Jane Hotel, 113 Jane St.

Dizzy Gifts, Part 3: Tools & Accessories Under $50

Hopefully by now you're doing better than I am and you're already done with your holiday shopping. If like me, you were busy with too many pre-holiday events and are now shopping last-minute, here are a few handy ideas for those cocktail lovers on your list--good luck!

Dizzy Recap: The Dizzy Fizz Holiday Puncheon!

“If you'd know when you've enough - Of the punch and the claret cup - It's time to quit the blessed stuff - When you fall down and can't get up”--Unknown

Blessed stuff indeed, and thanks to all who made The Dizzy Fizz Holiday Puncheon an unforgettable evening!

On Sunday December 20, 2009, I was pleased as punch to ring in the holidays in style with a plaid-fashioned punch party at The Summit Bar, 133 Avenue C. This invite-only event gathered more than 100 of the city’s top mixologists and bar industry professionals, cocktail bloggers, lovely friends, as well as some internationally-recognized master mixologists. The Puncheon not only celebrated the holiday season, but was also  my way of toasting the six-month mark for TheDizzyFizz.com as I approached 20,000 views--thanks for your support!

The Puncheon, named for the speakeasy that preceded the '21' Club some 80 years ago, featured seven punches created by members of the USBGNY (United States Bartending Guild of New York), LUPECNYC (NYC Chapter of the Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails), and The Summit Bar’s staff. Punches featured sponsored ingredients including: Plymouth Gin, Bols Genever, Ron Zacapa 23 Aged Rum, Bulleit Bourbon, Partida Tequila, Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky, 10 Cane Rum, Martini & Rossi Prosecco, Gran Marnier Liqueur, Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur, Benedictine Liqueur, Chartreuse, and Averna Sambuca Agrumi.

Author/illustrator Jill DeGroff, and her husband, master mixologist Dale “King Cocktail” DeGroff, were featured guests. Jill DeGroff signed copies of her new book, “Lush Life: Portraits from Behind the Bar,” for party guests, courtesy of Chartreuse. Brian Van Flandern, a Michelin three-star mixologist, consultant to Chef Thomas Keller of Per Se, and author of “Vintage Cocktails,” and John Myers, cocktail historian, mixologist, and author of the upcoming "What Would Jesus Drink: Cocktails for the Second Coming" were also in attendance.

LUPEC bartender Jane Elkins’ punch, “The Redhead,” won the most applause and bragging rights as the crowd favorite. The punch included sage-infused Barenjager Honey Liqueur, Yamazaki 12 Year Whisky, Bulleit Bourbon, rooibos tea, ginger syrup, grapefruit juice, lemon juice, and Fee Bros. Whiskey Barrel-Aged Bitters.

For the complete list of recipes, see the "Events" page. I can't thank the participating bartenders enough: Greg Seider of The Summit Bar, Frank Cisneros of Bar Celona and Prime Meats (USBGNY), John Pomeroy of The Hideout (USBGNY), Jane Elkins of Rye House (LUPEC), Lynnette Marrero of Rye House (LUPEC), Elayne Duke, mixologist for Diageo (LUPEC), Kelley Slagle of Hearth (LUPEC), and Katie Darling of White Star (LUPEC).

Special thanks to Jill and Dale DeGroff for driving through the snow to make the event, to Katie Darling and Tal Nadari of Bols Genever for letting us use their gorgeous punch bowls, to Lush Life Productions for their amazing photography (see the full reel here!) and for providing the yummy cheese and fruit platters, to Hamid Rashidzada of The Summit Bar for organizing an extremely professional staff, to my lovely door host, Chaya Wilkins, and to everyone who made it out on a cold Sunday night--I know you all could have just stayed home in your PJs. Thanks for getting punched in the mouth with me, let's do it again soon!

(Click on the photos to enlarge:)

Elsewhere in the Liquiverse...

• Two artisanal gin distilleries are coming to Brooklyn: New York Distilling Co. is underway near McCarren Park and Breuckelen Distilling Co. is taking over a renovated warehouse in Sunset Park.
• West Village Scottish bar Highlands is expected to reopen tonight after a small fire.
• Hot buttered rum (recipes here, here, and here) and cold buttered rum (recipes here and here) are everywhere this holiday season.
• Harlem, a new herbal liqueur with mandarin notes, hits NYC.
• 67 Orange, a speakeasy in Harlem, celebrates its one-year anniversary.
• Darcy O'Neil, of The Art of Drink blog, has published his first eBook, "Fix the Pumps," which researches phosphate sodas and includes 450 Pre-Prohibition soda recipes.
• On Saturday, Astor Center is hosting a holiday spirits bazaar, with tastings. Admission is $20 in advance; $25 at the door.
• Chantal Martineau of the Village Voice shares some details on the Junior Merino Liquid Lab experience. I went a couple of months ago, and it is a must for any NYC cocktailian.

Dizzy Gifts, Part 2: Education

 

"Study as if you were going to live forever; live as if you were going to die tomorrow."--Maria Mitchell, American astronomer

If you're anything like me, once you become passionate about something, you have a strong desire to learn as much about that something as you can. Some people might call me a nerd. Sure, there is something to be said for artistic intuition and natural talent, and there isn't a field of study for everything--abstract expressionist painting or a sense of humor, for instance--but when it comes to having a craft, such as writing or making cocktails, well, I come from the school of thought that you can never have too much school for your thoughts (although we should all get outside more and learn from nature, too).

I'll never forget the time I met Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown a year and a half ago at a Sagatiba tasting at Brandy Library. Spirits and drinks historians whose books include "Shaken Not Stirred: A Celebration of the Martini," "The Soul of Brasil," and "Cuba: The Legend of Rum," the couple travels the world to uncover the secrets behind the history of drinking. They are also the directors of Exposition Universelle des Vins et Spiritueux in Southern France. [In short, they are my idols.] Dave Wondrich, author of "Imbibe! From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash," also made a similar impression on me last year. These writers have managed to make a living by constantly seeking to quench their thirst for knowledge of drink-making of the past, present, and future.

Most cocktail enthusiasts consider themselves geeks and are in a constant state of study. So if you have a few of those types on your holiday shopping list, why not drop some knowledge on them and give them a gift that will last a lifetime? Here are some suggestions:

"The Bartender’s Gin Compendium" by Gaz Regan navigates the world of gin, from its roots as genever to the prominent brands of today.

"The Prohibition Hangover: Alcohol in American from Demon Rum to Cult Cabernet" by Garrett Peck charts the shift in social attitiudes towards drinking since the days of Prohibition and includes lots of facts on how we drink today.

Spirituous Journey: Book One" by Jared Brown and Anistatia Miller is one of the most thoroughly-researched looks at the birth of spirits and the distillation process, from China, to India, to Persia, through Europe and onto the New World.

"Lush Life: Portraits from the Bar" by author/illustrator Jill DeGroff is not only a stunning collection of her caricatures of who's who in the world of bartending, but the book also includes colorful stories and classic recipes.

Imbibe Magazine is the premiere publication on liquid culture and the art of drinking, and is must-have for anyone in the cocktail industry.

Astor Center's classes on cocktail-making and spirits history are an excellent resource for cocktailians in NYC. Gift certificates are available to cover the cost of the sessions.

And last but not least, BarSmarts Wired is an online version of the B.A.R. (Beverage Alcohol Resource) program developed by the leading mixologists in the industry. For $45, students receive educational DVDs, a workbook, and a bar tool kit, and earn certification once they pass the class, which takes about four weeks.

Dizzy Recap: Absolut Exceptional Experiences

With all of the hubbub [brouhaha? hullabaloo?] reverberating from last week's Repeal Day Ball, I didn't have time to report on the Absolut Exceptional Experiences bash held in NYC earlier this month. Hundreds of [highly attractive, I must say] guests packed into a warehouse event space at 508 W. 37th St. to witness Absolut's launch of its new ad campaign photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth and featuring celebs such as Kate Beckinsale and Zooey Deschanel.

Drinks included Absolut and tonic, the Absolut Citron cosmo, the Absolut bloody mary, and the Absolut Mandarin crush. There was no lack of entertainment, as scantilly-clad ladies danced on stages designed to look like live versions of the new ads while intermittent performances (woman on stilts, for instance) went on throughout the evening.

Giuseppe Gonzalez and Richard Boccato of Dutch Kills were featured at a satellite bar, mixing drinks with Absolut Citron, Mandarin, and Peppar for a sizable crowd. Contemporary Cocktails managed the bar service and staffing, and everyone seemed to be having a blast.

According to The New York Times, Absolut, sold under the umbrella of Pernod Ricard USA, is planning to introduce ads in collaboration with director Spike Jonze next year. Let's hope there's a party for that, too!

Dizzy Recap: 2nd Annual Repeal Day Ball in D.C.

 

"One cannot have too large a party. "--Jane Austen

Lately, I have had an amazing stroke of good fortune when it comes to attending events and traveling new places.  [Well, there I go, I've probably jinxed myself now.] I'll ask the universe to make something happen, and what do you know, at the last possible minute, an invite magically arrives. [Maybe next I should ask for a raise!] Such was the case this past weekend, when it was suddenly posed on Friday afternoon that I help the Lush Life Productions crew with their video and photo coverage of the D.C. Repeal Day Ball held Saturday night. I was planning on spending the weekend volunteering with kids in Harlem and otherwise bundling up on my couch. [It's ok, there's lots of NY Cares volunteers willing to play dodgeball with 9-year-olds.]

I scrambled to find the right dress for the swank black-tie affair, hopped into the LushLifeMobile with Lindsey Johnson, Leo Borovskiy, and Jason Littrell, and away we were, braving the first blizzard of the season to get to our nation's capital in time so that we could document it for the Museum of the American Cocktail. Being part of the press crew meant that we got to attend the event from the pre-opening stage, watching as the PS7's crew impressively pulled together all of the necessary details for the gala, all the way to the after-party at brand new bar The Passenger. Let's just say I got a little *dizzy* towards the end, although it was nothing too serious or worth calling my parents about.

PS7's bar manager, Gina Chersevani, chef/owner Peter Smith, along with the D.C. Craft Bartender's Guild, showed all of us New Yorkers who made the trip that the District truly knows how to let loose 1933-style. From the magnificent punches, egg nogs, and classic cocktails served by all-star bartenders, to the red-and-black sequined ladies in pearls and feathers and the gents in suits, bowties, and a few sporting real (and some costume) mustaches, to the swingin' jazz band, Red Hot Rhythm Chiefs, D.C.'s 76th anniversary of the end of Prohibition was a knockout soiree.

The "toastmaster" of the ball, mixologist and blogger Jeffrey Morgenthaler, bar manager at Clyde Common in Portland, Ore., has made it his ongoing mission to have Repeal Day recognized as a national holiday for years now, so he was the choice host. He kept us all entertained with drinking quotes from renowned cocktailians who couldn't make it, such as Dave Wondrich and Gaz Regan, as well as historical quotes and more tawdry quips from the crowd. Derek Brown, Dan Searing, and Owen Thompson of the D.C. Craft Bartender's Guild dressed up as the Founding Fathers, which added some revolutionary spirit to the occasion (as in, "Spirit of '76").

There was a leading cast of mixology all-stars both behind the stick and in attendance, which was a treat for me since I didn't make it to this past summer's Tales of the Cocktail:

King Cocktail, Dale DeGroff, served the "Cocktel Jerez" (Jameson Irish Whiskey, Lustau PX Sherry, Lustau Dry Oloroso Sherry, Angostura Bitters, flamed orange peel) from the heart of the kitchen, which I found especially charming. His queen, Jill DeGroff, signed copies of her whimsical, soulfully-illustrated tome of bartender and musician caricatures and colorful stories, "The Lush Life: Portraits from the Bar," which was just released in time for the gift-giving season. Ed Hamilton, founder of Ministry of Rum, mixed ti' punches made with 100-proof rum straight from Martinique, sugarcane syrup (which you must try if you haven't yet, and can purchase here), and a small squeeze of lime, mixed with a swizzle stick. The Tippling Bros' Tad Carducci made a cheerfully-garnished "Gussied-Up Bread Line" (Averna Amaro, G'Vine Floraison Gin, fresh lemon, ginger beer, cranberries). Todd Thrasher (how cool is that name), mixologist at PX in Alexandria, Va., crafted a "Veritas" (Benedictine, Laird's Applejack, homemade apple bitters, walnut water, fermented apple, cider air) which I had two of and was as amazing-tasting as it sounds. Adam Bernbach of D.C.'s Proof delivered a unique and impressive hot drink, the "Pisco in Winter" (butter-infused Macchu Pisco, citrus-spice syrup, and hot water, garnished with an Angostura-cinnamon marhsmallow, yum). Rachel Sergi of Againn meticulously strained the "Thank U-Tah," (Tres Generaciones Anejo Tequila, Luxardo Maraschino, Leopold Bros. Three Pins Alpine Herbal Liqueur, fresh lemon, lime, orange, and grapefruit, egg, cinnamon tincture, and Fee Bros. Aztec Chocolate Bitters--whew) into a frothy flip. Philadelphia's Christian Gaal, bartender at Apothecary and Noble American Cookery,  shook up some drinks as well, and there were other punches and nogs and delightful-looking things that I wanted to try, but as you can imagine, water eventually became a necessity.

By the time we sauced revelers arrived at The Passenger, which mixologists and brothers Derek and Tom Brown opened late last month, it was bustling with an already-packed crowd and the scene was in full swing. I had a punch that included dangerously good ingredients I can no longer remember, champagne spiked with rum, and a most refreshing dark beer, the Butternuts Moo Thunder Stout, which had notes of espresso and malty goodness. Oh, and the company was great--met Marshall Fawley of Scofflaw's Den and made lots of new D.C. friends. Let's just say it's a good thing that D.C. bars close at 2 a.m. because I'm not sure some of us (myself included) needed to continue riding the express train to Overindulgence.

I must apologize for not writing down the food menu that was offered, but every hors d'oeuvre and appetizer I tried melted in my mouth, and I hope to check out PS7's dinner menu next time I'm in D.C. After doing a little post-event research, I discovered that PS7's is across from the historic first meeting place of the Anti-Saloon League, which launched the crusade for Prohibition. For more photos, check out The Washingtonian, keep an eye out for We Shoot Cocktails photos coming soon here, and if you're friends with us on Facebook: there will soon be a few extras in my album, be sure to scope the lovely Lush Life Production's album (and video here), and for shots of more NYC-D.C. love and Sunday's bartender brunch, check out Jason's snap-happy album--he stuck around D.C. longer than the rest of us.

Most of all thanks to Lush Life, Dale and Jill DeGroff, and all of the amazing D.C. bottlerockers. Repeal Day is the bartender's holiday, and I was honored to celebrate it with some of the best in the country. Hope to see you again next year!

Elsewhere in the Liquiverse...

• The Meatpacking District isn't just a place to chug bottles of Goose and Patron. Take your next date or out-of-town visitor on this romantic walking tour for an alluring look at the cobblestone zone. (Yep, by yours truly)
• Harlem speakeasy 67 Orange celebrates its one-year anniversary tonight. They are celebrating with $5 shots and introducing a new cocktail menu. Try the "Almack's," with Batavia Arrack, Lillet Blanc, Velvet Falernum, Allspice Dram, and muddled grapes. 8 to 10 p.m., 2082 Frederick Douglas Blvd.
• A look at Williamsburg's new rum bar, Roneria Caracas, in the Village Voice. (Again, by yours truly)
• The New York Times recommends Underberg bitters to combat holiday overindulgence, and apparently Prime Meats in Cobble Hill sells more of the German bitters than any other place in the country.
• Jim Meehan shows off his $660 bartender's bag for Metromix.
• On Dec. 16, The Metropolitan Opera is collaborating with mixologist Allen Katz to hold a cocktail competition. A group of NYC bartenders were recently invited to see a dress rehearsal of Tales of Hoffmann, which opens with the title character in a tavern, reflecting on past loves. Joaquin Simo (Death & Co.), Lynnette Marrero (Rye House), Meaghan Dorman (Raines Law Room), Leo Robitschek (Eleven Madison Park), Ryan McGrale (Flatiron Lounge), Brad Farran (Clover Club), and James Menite (Porter House) will be competing to create cocktails inspired by the production.
• The Magnificent Bastard is hosting a cocktail competition in search of the next classic cocktail. Bartenders have until Jan. 31 to submit recipes, and the winner will receive a $500 gift certificate to KegWorks.

D.C. to Celebrate Repeal Day in Style

Tomorrow is the 76th anniversary of Repeal Day, the day that Prohibition ended in 1933 with the 36th vote from Utah (yes, Utah) to repeal the 18th Amendment. For cocktailians, it's an actual holiday, a day to raise a glass and toast our freedom to drink  in places other than speakeasies. Many NYC bar industry types are headed to Washington, D.C., where a 2nd Annual Repeal Day Ball is being put on by the D.C. Craft Bartenders Guild at PS7. Tickets for the black-tie event start at $100, and guests will get to clink glasses with Dale DeGroff and Portland, Ore., mixologist Jeffrey Morgenthaler.

If you're going, head down early for author Garrett Peck's Temperance Tour, which visits all of the Prohibition-related sites in the capital. Garrett knows his stuff--his book, The Prohibition Hangover, is a thoroughly-researched look at how America's attitude towards drinking has changed from the days of the Anti-Saloon League to today's $189 billion drinking culture. I sat down with Garrett last month when I was in D.C. for a drink at Bourbon, and we chatted about his writing process.

Garrett got the idea for his book during Christmas of 2003, when he opened a bottle of burgundy to drink with his mother and grandmother. His grandmother, born in 1913, was of a generation that still stigmatized alcohol use, and she refused to have a sip. Meanwhile, Garrett and his mother are both social drinkers and collect wine. This got Garrett thinking about the shift in cultural mores towards acceptance of alcohol following Repeal.

Since all of the alcohol industry lobby groups are in D.C., Garrett was able to interview industry insiders and activists, as well as research historical legal documents. He also traveled across the country, from California wine country to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail to craft beer breweries in Pennsylvania and New England, among other boozy locales. Garrett finds that while two-thirds of Americans drink, the debate over how much to drink and at what age to start drinking is still a hot issue. You'll have to read the book for yourself to hear Garrett's arguments for lowering the drinking age to 18 to combat binge drinking, and make your own conclusions.

Garrett's Temperance Tour starts at noon at the Cogswell Temperance Fountain at the Archives/Navy Memorial Metro station on the green/yellow line, and you'll need a Metro (subway) card. The tour should finish by 3 p.m., so you'll have plenty of time to get dolled up for the ball that evening, or grab an early drink and start celebrating.

Best Bar to Get You Through the Holidays: Louis 649

If you're in need of a respite from the nightmare that is holiday shopping in NYC (hands numb from the cold, double-fisted with shopping bags, bumping into throngs of dazed consumers), make your way through the charming boutiques of the East Village to East 9th Street and Avenue C, where cocktail bar Louis 649's welcoming atmosphere and vast cocktail menu should warm you up.

During a season that is increasingly about spending money, Louis 649 understands the value of free. Every Tuesday night from 7 to 9 p.m., the bar opens its doors for imbibers looking to sample fine, free booze doled out for its Tuesday Night Tastings. Sponsored by a different brand of liquor (or wine or beer) each week, these tastings are essentially seminars. The tastings are especially popular among local bartenders who want to improve their palates and spirits knowledge, even though it’s their night off.

“Some of the leading bartenders in our area come to hear our speakers,” said Gianfranco Verga, general manager at Louis 649. “We've built relationships with these great producers and wanted to give our community the chance to benefit from them.”

As if that weren't generous enough, Louis 649 is teaming up with Time Out magazine to offer a special drink deal tonight only--the "Sherry Pie" (sherry, rum, maraschino liqueur, honey syrup, cream, and cinnamon) is $8 tonight instead of $12. Also, the bar now offers food from local purveyors, including cheese from Saxelby Cheese Mongers, charcuterie from The Brooklyn Larder, and empanadas from Barnyard--all perfect for a quick bite before re-entering the madness of the season.

Louis 649, 649 E. 9th St., (212)673-1190.

Dizzy Gifts, Part 1: DIY

In case you haven't noticed, the holidays are approaching faster than a speeding balloon boy. Since many of us are pinching pennies this year, I thought I would kick off my cocktailian gift guide series with a list of DIY projects for those looking to do something homemade (and inexpensive). Keep in mind, if you're doing an infusion, you'll want to get started now so those flavors can sink in! Also, be sure to use triple-sanitized, airtight bottles to contain your concoctions. I've linked to the experts for instructions on relatively easy gifts you can make with a quick trip to the supermarket and liquor store:

• No fan of Gibson martinis will turn down a jar of pickled cocktail onions. And here's a variation featuring saffron.
• Bitters may require obscure herbs and spices, but Jamie Boudreau shows us the way.
• Show your friends what real maraschino cherries are supposed to taste like, thanks to CocktailNerd.
• Have a fan of sweet drinks on your list? Offer a bottle of homemade grenadine sans high fructose corn syrup.
• Liqueurs such as limoncello and Irish cream require a couple of weeks to infuse, but the end result is worth the wait.
• Candied citrus peel makes a great garnish as well as a snack.
• A muslin bag or jar filled with mulling spices equals instant holiday charm.
• Make herbal salts for rimming cocktails (more flavors here and here). Be sure to gift them in pretty jars.

Sip & Tell: Brandon Lieb of Ron Atlantico

Given the recent opening of the city's first rum-centric bar, Roneria Caracas in Williamsburg, rum may very well be the next premium spirit to win over NYC's cocktail crowd. So it was good timing that Brandon Lieb, the Miami-based co-founder of Ron Atlantico, recently made an extended visit here to share his sipping rum and get to know the NYC cocktail scene.

"I'm not here to sell anything," said Brandon, who launched Atlantico in Miami over a year ago. "I want to let people make up their minds about it."

Brandon, who formerly worked for Bacardi, founded Atlantico with Aleco Azqueta, whose family owns the Casa de Campo resort in the Dominican Republic. There, they found a third-generation master blender to produce Atlantico from small-batch, aged rums that are blended and then aged in bourbon casks. Composed of rums between 15 and 25 years old, the additional aging process uses the solera method (typically used for sherry), which allows the flavors to mellow and marry. A true dark rum, Atlantico has gentle vanilla and toffee flavors without the overpowering sweetness of a spiced rum. It's lusciously complex with a smooth finish, and is best sipped neat, on the rocks, or mixed in a daiquiri.

When he first arrived in New York a few months ago, Brandon introduced Atlantico to the Dominican neighborhoods in the Bronx and Washington Heights before hitting Manhattan hotspots such as Rose Bar, Le Cirque, and Philippe. He said the Latin communities of New York and Miami have embraced Atlantico, preferring to sip it neat, although in Miami the daiquiri is approaching the cult status of the mojito.

Today, Brandon is headed back to Miami, just in time to skip the winter chill in NYC. Meanwhile, he'll be watching from afar to see how Atlantico and other sipping rums fare during the dark spirits season here, where rye, scotch, and bourbon are popular methods for keeping warm. He hopes imbibers will notice Atlantico's cigar-inspired label as bars increase their stock of premium rums.

"We're not trying to be the biggest rum, but we're trying to be one that people appreciate," said Brandon.

Dizzy Recap: Death & Co.'s Fall/Winter Menu Tasting

"Taut nerves relax; taut muscles relax; tired eyes brighten; tongues loosen; friendships deepen; the whole world becomes a better place in which to live."--David A. Embury

Death & Co., which recently rejoiced over its extended hours (now open until 2 a.m. on weekends), rolled out a new cocktail and food menu earlier this week, and I had the pleasure of attending last night's press tasting. The 2 1/2-year-old cocktail den of East 6th Street had a challenging beginning with several legal battles with the SLA/Community Board 3, but this new, inspired menu signals perseverance for the bar and seems to put the past to bed.

Co-owner David Kaplan is especially proud of the new food menu by recently-hired Chef Luis Gonzalez, who trained under renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten at Mercer Kitchen. "For once, I feel like we have a food menu that is on par with the quality of the cocktails," said Kaplan.

And quality cocktails they are--we started with "Pelée's Blood" (Rhum JM Blanc, Don's Mix #2, homemade grenadine, lime juice, dash absinthe), D&C bartender Thomas Waugh's take on a tiki cocktail. It was a delicious punch-type drink with balanced sweetness, and it made for a refreshing start. The drink was paired with a small plate of tuna tartare with crushed avocado and homemade kettle chips as well as a melt-in-your-mouth pan-seared foie gras with corn pancake and quince puree. Clearly, Gonzalez's dishes elevate bar snacking  to a whole new level.

Next, I had the "Daisy Buchanan" (Chamomile-infused Old Overholt Rye, Dolin Dry Vermouth, Aperol, and Yellow Chartreuse), created by D&C bartender Joaquin Simo. Solid, strong cocktail, especially if you like a dry finish. This was a perfect palate-cleanser for the pulled-pork slider and mini-scoop of truffle mac 'n' cheese, which were both highly-satisfying indulgent treats. Then, onto the "Ingenue" (Pierre Ferrand Ambre Cognac, Dolin Sweet Vermouth, Don's Spices), one of D&C bartender Brian Miller's cocktails. The clove-heavy flavors of Don's Spices (a mix of vanilla syrup and allspice dram), made for a rich, autumnal drink that would be perfect for sipping next to a fireplace.  This was paired with a mushroom tart with walnut and onion pesto and the crispy pork belly, served with sauteed kale, braised cranberry beans, and pomegranate seeds.

Last but not least was D&C bartender Alex Day's "Little Engine" (Famous Grouse whisky, tawny port, apple butter, lemon juice, maple syrup). Served over a mountain of crushed ice with a fresh apple garnish, this drink for me was the most "adult" apple cocktail I've ever tried. The port adds depth to the usual apple pie flavors, and the apple butter infusion coats the tongue without being unctuous. Naturally, this was served with apple cobbler.

Special thanks to David for the invite, and to bartenders Jason Littrell and Brian Miller for being so on-point, given all of those new recipes to keep track of. I can't wait to return and try more!

Elsewhere in the Liquiverse...

"I think we've fetishized the cocktail."--Audrey Saunders to LA Weekly

• Those Londoners know what's up--next month, look for a giant punch bowl big enough to paddle a boat in at 33 Portland Place. The winning punch recipe will soon be announced by artists Bompas & Parr, collaborating with Courvoisier.
• More good news for LA's cocktail scene--which is yet to be "fetishized," according to Audrey Saunders, who will help open The Tar Pit there on Dec. 7.
• Death & Co. rolled out a new menu last night. Details to come...
• Feeling a November chill? Warm up by checking out AMountainofCrushedIce's best-of tiki drinks from the days of Don the Beachcomber.
• Traveling bartenders will soon be able to lug their tools in a luxury leather bar bag designed by Jim Meehan of PDT for leather crafters Moore & Giles. Good thing bartenders make bank because these puppies are going for $740 a pop.
• Apple brandy is the apple of the bartender's eye these days, according to the SF Chronicle. Rickhouse's "Scottish Breakfast" with Germain-Robin Apple Brandy and Glenrothes Select Reserve sounds like a winner!

Exclusive! Rye House to Open Tuesday

Drinking options around Union Square are about to significantly improve as all-American gastropub Rye House soft-opens this weekend before fully opening on Tuesday. Located at 11 W. 17th St., between 5th and 6th Aves., just down the street from cocktail lounge Raines Law Room, Rye House emphasizes American food and spirits.

 I attended a super-soft opening last night and sampled an Appleseed Cobbler cocktail (Maker’s Mark bourbon, Applejack, cinnamon bark syrup, apples) and Chef Greg Johnson's phenomenal buffalo sweetbreads paired with a Nectar IPA. Prepared in the style of buffalo wings and served with blue cheese and celery, the spicy, crunchy breading complemented the tender, creamy offal perfectly and made for a playful bar plate.

Owners Mike Janetta and Rob Lombardi (Sala Bowery and Sala 19) and Julio Herencia teamed up with Lynnette Marrerro (Zacapa Rum, Eletteria, Freemans, drinksat6) and Jim Kearns (Freemans, Mayahuel, Pegu Club) to develop the cocktail program. Lynette and Jim previously worked together to create the cocktail menu at now-closed Woodson & Ford. There's also a selection of domestic craft beers on tap and domestic wines. The long white granite bar with antique shelves is packed with a selection brown spirits, especially micro-distilled/artisanal whiskies and bourbons.

"We wanted to use small-batch American spirits," said Lynnette. "Every drink had to have an ounce or more of an American spirit. The drinks are American twists on classics. Some, like the Creole Daiquiri, show the best of American fusion. We wanted to have a seasonal julep since it is the quintessential American whisky drink."

Plates by Chef Greg and Ann McKinney, chef de cuisine, include drunken mussels with wheat beer and tarragon, crayfish po' boys, beef wellington sandwiches with filet mignon and foie gras on brioche, baby chicken with buttermilk spoonbread, and stout BBQ ribs. Rye House has a front bar area with plenty of seats at the bar as well as two long, farmhouse-style communal tables, and additional communal seating and booths in the back. The decor is a mix of rustic Americana with clean, modern lines, and dim, romantic lighting. I look forward to returning again soon!

The hotly-anticipated cocktail menu here:

The Mansfield: Bluecoat gin or Tito’s vodka, Dolin blanc, yellow Chartreuse, grapefruit bitters ($12) 17^th St. Sazerac: Rittenhouse rye, Hine cognac, demerara, Peychaud & Angostura bitters, Marteau absinthe ($12) Fleur de Lis: Aviation gin, St-Germain, lemon, orange bitters, champagne ($12) Orange Blossom Special: Overholt Rye, lemon, simple, orange flower water, egg white, soda ($12) Golden Delicious: Applejack 7½ year, lemon, honey syrup ($12) Clara Bow: Bulleit Bourbon, St.-Germain, house made grenadine, lemon, mint ($12) Rye House Punch: Chai-infused Rittenhouse Rye, Batavia Arrack, lemon, grapefruit, angostura bitters, soda ($12) American  Highball: Buffalo Trace, Averna, soda, orange slice ($12) Appleseed Cobbler: Maker’s Mark bourbon, Applejack, cinnamon bark syrup, apples ($12) Rye House Julep: Peach-infused Death's Door white whiskey, Applejack, mint ($13) Creole Daiquiri: Old New Orleans 3 year rum, chorizo-infused Sombre Mezcal, lime, pomegranate molasses, cane syrup ($13)

Rye House, 11 W. 17th St. (212) 255-7260. The bar is open 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily, dinner is served until 11 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and until 12 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Lunch service will begin on Nov. 19 and brunch will start on Nov. 28.

Elsewhere in the Liquiverse...

• Have out-of-town guests arriving in NYC for the holidays? Be sure to steer them to these swanky new New York hotel bars.
• LeNell Smothers, who writes for Slashfood as "LeNellItAll," shares her easy "Spa Mix" recipe to make any drink as cool as a cucumber.
• Harlem speakeasy 67 Orange Street is hosting a Partida cocktail tasting from 7:30 to 9pm on Tuesday, Nov. 17. 2082 Frederick Douglas Blvd., 212-662-2030
• Pernod Absinthe is holding an art contest, "Creator Of," asking for submissions of paintings, illustrations, photography, video, and digital/animation featuring the date "1805," the year Pernod was born. The first-place winner will receive $1,805; second and third prizes are $500 and $250, respectively. Deadline is Jan. 31.

Dizzy Recap: WhiskyFest New York

“Too much of anything is bad, but too much of good whiskey is barely enough.” –Mark Twain

Toasted vanilla, sweet sherry, cedar. Prunes, dark chocolate, charred fruits. Cracked pepper, moss, smoky peat. What is there not to love about the spicy, tongue-tingling world of whisk(e)y? Clearly, not a thing, as the 12th Annual WhiskyFest New York at the Marriott Marquis in Times Square was wall-to-wall packed with whisky drinkers Tuesday night. With more than 200 exhibitors pouring drams of single malts, blended whiskies, bourbon, rum, beer, and other spirits, this was one dizzy affair.

Upon entering the boisterous scene, I made a beeline for the USBGNY booth to sip on some scotch cocktails before diving into straight pours. As expected, the drinks were complex and delish--I sampled Meaghan Dorman's "Bagpipe Dream" (Compass Box Asyla scotch, fresh lemon juice, ginger maple syrup), Jolene Skrzysowski's "Rustic Plums" (Woodford's Reserve bourbon, Domaine de Canton, plum wine, pear nectar), and Hal Wolin's "2009 Scotch Odyssey" (Glenmorangie 10 Year scotch, Laphroaig scotch, mole bitters, demerara syrup). I also had a fantastic Old Fashioned by USBGNY President Jonatha Pogash, but forgot to write down the ingredients.

John Glaser, creator of Compass Box Whisky, said the recent evolution of fine scotch as an ingredient in cocktails has made for a positive addition at WhiskyFest. "You would never have seen this five years ago," he said.

So which whiskies did I try? Let's see, from what I can recall there was Michael Collins Irish Whiskey Single Malt, Compass Box Spice Tree, Glenmorangie Nectar D'Or, Ardberg 10 Year, The Balvenie Portwood 21 Year, Glenrothes 1991 (they were out of 1985),  Tullamore Dew 12 Year, Blanton's Single Barrel bourbon, Highland Park 18 Year, Yamazaki 18 Year, and a most delicious Signatory Glen Grant 1976 from the Bar & Books booth. I also had Zacapa Rum, BrewDog Paradox Smokehead stout aged in Scotch casks, and more scotch cocktails mixed by kilted bartenders from St. Andrews Restaurant & Bar. There were so many more drams I wanted to try, if time and liver capacity were of no concern.

The crowd was, from my approximation, 90 percent male, 40 percent Orthodox Jewish (maybe more), and 70 percent over the age of 40, not that it matters or anyone's counting. Thanks to Malt Advocate for organizing the event and to Kate Laufer for the invite. Slainte!

Sip & Tell: Gardner Dunn of Suntory Whisky

"For relaxing times, make it Suntory time."--Bill Murray's character, "Bob Harris," advertising Suntory in Lost in Translation

[Sip & Tell features barstool interviews with spirits industry professionals.]

You probably recognize the above quote from the 2003 film Lost in Translation starring Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson. Around that time, Suntory was still best known for its melon liqueur, Midori, but over the past few years, its single malt whisky, Yamazaki, has infiltrated U.S. shores and quietly stolen the hearts of many a scotch drinker. Yamazaki 12 year and 18 year, both prize-winning in blind tastings, are made at Japan's oldest distillery, founded by Scotland-educated Shinjiro Torii in 1923. Created with the level of craftsmanship the Japanese are known for, the whisky is aged in Japanese, American, and Spanish oak casks, lending a full-bodied flavor and silky smooth finish.

Over the past year, many of NYC's best-known cocktail bars have featured drinks made with Yamazaki, such as the "Gold Rush" at Goldbar and the "Murray Sour" at Minetta Tavern. This is mainly due to the work of Gardner Dunn, North American Brand Ambassador for Suntory Whisky.

Gardner, a mixologist who is as recognized for his creative cocktails as his off-kilter hairstyle, travels around the country for several days (if not weeks) every month. He says he's seeing a younger crowd show interest in the brand. "Scotch used to be a status symbol, something your dad drank," he said. "Now I'm seeing younger people wanting to try new stuff. They're interested in hearing about the distillation and the history."

Gardner recently got an advanced course on all things Yamazaki when he traveled to the Suntory distillery on the outskirts of Kyoto, a location chosen for its water source. The Vale of Yamazaki, hailed by famous master of the tea ceremony, Senno Rikyu, is legendary for its pure water. Inspired by the art of Japanese bartening, which includes techniques such as ice ball carving and the hard shake, Gardner set out to gather Japanese bartending tools to show to the many skilled bartenders he's met stateside. He's put together a "Godzilla Kit," with tools including crystal mixing glasses with a lip, bar spoons with forks on the opposite end, and Japanese jiggers, which have a thinner and deeper design and more balanced weight than standard jiggers.

The Godzilla Kits are just one bonus in what is turning out to be an exciting year for Suntory. Later this month, the hotly-anticipated Hibiki 12-year blended whisky (aged in plum liqueur casks and filtered through bamboo charcoal) hits shelves in NYC and California, its first debut stateside.  Also, just in time for the holidays, a limited edition of 300 bottles of 1984 Yamazaki will be released, for $550-$650 a pop.

Gardner says he finds himself crafting cocktails less and less and carving ice balls more and more as he focuses on educating people everywhere about the history and philosophy behind Suntory. "Cocktails are not the goal [for Yamazaki], but it does mix very well," he said. "It doesn't have a lot of heat, but it has honey overtones that pair well with other spirits."

Kanpai!